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Who is Naohiko Noguchi, the God of Sake?

Admittedly, we found it difficult to write an account that would sum up in a few sentences the life of the man nicknamed, at the ripe old age of 92, the “God of Sake”. In the space of a few words, we're going to retrace the life of Naohiko Noguchi, a simple, smiling man, and explain the reasons behind his nickname.
Naohiko Noguchi in the tasting room of the Noguchi Saké InstituteNaohiko Noguchi was born in 1932 in Ishikawa, where he began his career at the age of 16 before becoming Master Toji just a few years later. By exercising his talent at several breweries in his native region, he made a major contribution to their international renown, accumulating no fewer than 27 gold medals at Japan's National Sake Competition, including 12 in a row! An exciting professional life rich in accolades, a description of which would be incomplete without mentioning his preponderant influence in the world of sake, and in particular the key role he played in the revival of the “Yamahai” brewing method. This ancestral technique was in decline in post-war Japan and would certainly have disappeared without his intervention. This element made him a veritable icon, whose dedication and expertise in the art of sake production were recognized by awards of the highest rank. Naohiko Noguchi was awarded the title of Contemporary Master Craftsman in 2006, followed by the “Yellow Ribbon” Medal in 2008, awarded by the Emperor himself.Naohiko Noguchi Yellow Ribbon Medal 2006
The story could have ended there, suggesting a peaceful and well-deserved retirement for our protagonist, but this was without counting the incredible project that saw the light of day in 2017 and consisted in the creation of an Institute in his honor and which would bear his name: the Naohiko Noguchi Sake Institute.
The Naohiko Noguchi Saké Institute building
Naohiko Noguchi is back at work in this magnificent building on the hills of Komatsu, on the edge of the majestic pine forests of the Sanreizan, sacred mountains well known to the Japanese. The institute is a brewery, a place where knowledge is passed on and a place of pilgrimage for sake lovers. The institute can be visited, and that's certainly the best way to find out more about the hectic life of this legend.
Access corridor to the Naohiko Noguchi Sake Institute
From the entrance, the walls of the corridor leading to the production rooms are covered with a fresco retracing his life. It traces a century and more of sake history, since his father and grandfather were already Toji, traveling on foot from Ishikawa to Mie with men and equipment to practice their art.
Takashi Iwai, Institute Director and Naohiko Noguchi's right-hand man
Takashi Iwai, Institute Director and Naohiko Noguchi's right-hand man

We are guided by Takashi Iwai, Director of the Institute and Naohiko Noguchi's right-hand man. He is one of four people working on production, along with three other kurabito in residence who were lucky enough to be selected this year. All have different plans, one to join a production unit, another to set up his own brewery, yet another to become a sake expert. They all tell us how proud they are to be able to learn from the master. Learning, and one might even say working with, Noguchi's 92-year-old energy makes it clear that he's not here for chit-chat.Koji preparation by Naohiko Noguchi and toji girl at the workshop
Naohiko Noguchi in the Koji preparation room

It's also worth pointing out that passing on knowledge doesn't come naturally in the Toji world. This is partly because many want to keep the expertise that makes them unique a secret, but also, and more often than not, because Toji have little sense of pedagogy. In this sense, the Naohiko Noguchi Institute is an exception: from the outset, it was conceived as a place of transmission for those wishing to embark on the path of sake.
A young toji trainee at the Naohiko Noguchi Sake institute
From the Institute come true nectars that carry the heritage of this know-how, coupled with the expertise and immediate control of Naohiko Noguchi. Sakes with multiple nuances that, as an evidence of quality and complexity, are accessible to novices while fully satisfying the expectations of great connoisseurs. With an emphasis on aged namazake and limited series, each cuvée tells its own story, blending craftsmanship, terroir and innovation.
Sake tasting at the Noguchi Sake Institute
Sake tasting at the Noguchi Sake Institute
To take your discovery even further, and if you're tempted to go on a pilgrimage, the Institute boasts a magnificent private tasting room with a free view of the surrounding rice paddies and forest. A splendid setting, an atmosphere and colors that change with the seasons. A simply superb sight under the winter snows.

We are proud to announce that we are now importing and distributing sakes made by the Noguchi Institute. We invite you to discover them and take advantage of an exceptional introductory offer.


In Focus today:
Kanagaso Vintage 2021 - Nama Genshu Muroka

Kanagaso is an unpasteurized (nama), unreduced (genshu) and non-charcoal-filtered (muroka) sake. In other words, the brewery has chosen to keep intact the components that bring aroma and complexity to the final product. What's more, the unpasteurized juice has been aged for 4 years! This is a rare testimony to remarkable technical mastery.
Sake bottle Naohiko Noguchi Kanagaso
The nose is expressive, with notes of rice powder, white peach, melon and pear, as well as more complex hints of koji mushroom, chestnut and hay. The palate is supple, its sharp acidity and fairly high alcohol content (20°, it's a genshu...) arriving fairly quickly and bringing a lovely freshness and incredible vibrancy that accompanies the tasting throughout. Oscillating between the liveliness of namazake and the complexity of aging, the expression of fruit is coupled with a slight bitterness that enlivens a powerful, bewitching finish.
Naohiko Noguchi Kanagaso sake bottle with Neuvic caviar
A saké that gives a fine overview of the magnificent work carried out at the Naohiko Noguchi Institute, and is perfect for accompanying dishes with strong flavors. The sea with caviar and blue fish, the earth with meats or cheeses.