The arrival of this novelty has inspired us to tell you about a truly atypical category in the world of Japanese alcoholic beverages: the Doburoku category.

A veritable plunge into the traditions of sake, Doburoku is a troubled beverage in every sense of the word. Long produced domestically before being banned outright, then allowed back in under controlled conditions, its originality now appeals to many enthusiasts in search of authenticity, not to mention the thrill of its somewhat sulphurous history...

Doburoku is a primitive form of sake. It is of course fermented from rice, but unlike refined sake, it is unfiltered, retaining its smooth texture and mild flavor, balanced by a hint of acidity.

Fermenting rice in vats to produce Doburoku.

Once the daily drink of farming families, Doburoku was ubiquitous in Edo Japan. In 1855, there were over 450 breweries in Tokyo alone! However, the introduction of taxes on alcohol by the central government led to a drastic reduction in production, until it was banned altogether in 1899. Doburoku then went underground, continuing to exist secretly, in the shadow of sake.

Antique map of Tokyo (c. 1850). At that time, Edo had over 450 doburoku producers.

Today, its production is strictly regulated, with rice growers and breweries perpetuating this ancestral know-how, as well as certain shrines that offer it to participants in their many festivals and ceremonies.

Today, we're pleased to present Kappa no Doburoku, "Kappa's Doburoku". It's cloudy, thick, rustic yet superbly bright, pearly and almost sparkling. A testament to the past, with a little taste of the forbidden. Although the bottles hold 900 ml, the Kappa on the label couldn't resist taking a sip for himself, reducing the actual volume to 720 ml.

Less mild than its appearance might suggest, it's the perfect accompaniment to savory antipasti, cured ham, boutargue and aged Parmesan, as well as simple dishes such as poultry fillet or grilled calamari à la plancha topped with a touch of fleur de sel. A real treat!

The brewery that produces Kappa No Doburoku is called Kumazawa, a family-run unit located in Kanagawa, in the heart of the idyllic Shonan coast. This seaside tourist area is very popular with Tokyoites, a paradise for bathers where you can surf with a breathtaking view of Mount Fuji!

The Kumazawa family settled in the area to farm the land, and soon took advantage of their own rice harvests to start producing sake. The brewery was founded in 1872. Today, it is the only brewery in the region to have survived such crises as the great earthquake of 1923 and the Second World War. Since the 1990s, the sixth generation of owners has set a new course, focusing on the creation of quality sake and welcoming visitors.

If you're lucky enough to be in the area, be sure to stop off at Kumazawa, as it's much more than a sake brewery: it's a meeting place and cultural center, with a café, boutique, garden and several restaurants.

As for the character on the label, he's a Kappa, an aquatic spirit from Japanese folklore as fascinating as it is disturbing. With a turtle shell and a devouring passion for cucumbers, this yokai lives in rivers and ponds. Once feared for its tendency to lure children underwater, a warning against the dangers of waterways, the Kappa's image has softened over time and it is now a very popular mascot. In Chigasaki, a Kappa is said to have given a carafe of inexhaustible sake to the man who saved his life - a gift as wonderful as it was pernicious!